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Cuernavaca

Only 50 miles south of Mexico City (an hour’s drive), Cuernavaca has been a popular vacation destination since before the Spanish conquest. It has grown from its 1960’s reputation as a playground for the international jet set, to a modern, growing city of 300,000 busy commuters. Efficient services and good universities now complement its glorious climate (consistent 81° F or 27° C) and attractive colonial ambiance.

In addition to its cathedral, main square, colonial palace, a couple of museums and fine gardens, Cuernavaca offers interesting side trips. Its sprawl means it is not a foot-friendly city, and the foreign community, which is established and sizable, is not as visible or accessible as it is in San Miguel de Allende, for example. It consists more of privileged people tucked away in high-walled mansions.

Consequently, despite a great tradition of foreign participation (Eric Fromm lived here, U.S. Ambassador Dwight Morrow kept a house here, and Charlie Mingus died here, to mention a handful of famous former residents), Cuernavaca is not particularly warm or welcoming. However, it is very popular with foreign language students, and is famous internationally for its Spanish language schools.

Although the climate here is lovely, the sun is very strong and Cuernavaca can be unpleasantly hot for walking about. Tourists should wear hats, sunblock, comfortable shoes, and keep well hydrated. While not unsafe, many tourists feel they can detect the resentment of the poorer, more rural population against the extremely rich who clearly run the show.

In the early nineties Cuernavaca was known as “the kidnapping capital of Mexico” and it still bears the blemish of a reputation for corrupt police and government. It is one of the few cities in Mexico, other than the capital, where it is not recommended to ride in taxis hailed from the street.

Mineral springs in the surrounding state of Morelos have provided Cuernavaca with a centuries-old tradition of balnearios (bathing spots) and temazcales (pre-colonial steam baths with medicinal herbs). In the last decade, this has led to the establishment of some of the country’s top spas, in or around town. Hostería Las Quintas, Misión del Sol, Hostal de la Luz (in nearby Amatlán) are among those that combine limited medical spa services with holistic and unique spiritual treatments. Famous doctors, scientists, and botanists have also made Cuernavaca their home, adding to its reputation as a healthy retreat. The city has a well-developed, alternative-health scene, from yoga classes to nutritional cures, meditation, a wide range of therapies and spiritual centers. This is taken up a notch in the nearby mountain village of Tepoztlán, which can quite safely be described as one of the most New Age towns in Mexico, renowned for witchcraft and its annual UFO spotting convention.