Morelia

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Morelia, founded in 1541, is a stately World Heritage Site a little under 200 miles west of Mexico City. The four- to five-hour drive makes it just far enough away to keep its culture, pace and individuality intact. During the colonial period a number of religious orders established themselves in the city, securing a place for it in Mexico’s art and political history.

The historic center is well preserved with about 150 city blocks and 1,000 historical buildings and sites. Wide boulevards, spacious plazas, ornate churches, convents, and a thriving municipal life with music festivals, art, and cuisine offer a strong regional character. It tends to be much appreciated by senior visitors as well as younger Spanish-language students.

Morelia and its surroundings reflect a measured growth that welcomes foreigners without compromising its local character. English is not widely spoken as it is in other destinations in this region, but top educational establishments, language schools, and a depth of historical research make this a cultural capital unto itself. Important architectural landmarks include the Aqueduct, the Palacio Clavijero, and the baroque cathedral. Morelia, home to the first music conservatory in the Americas, celebrates an international organ festival in May, as well as the International Music Festival in the last two weeks of July.

The most notable side trip from Morelia is the beautiful lakeside town of Pátzcuaro, but there are many villages famed for their crafts in this region, whether mask making, guitars, copper cauldrons, or weaving. Visitors who do not speak Spanish will probably find it easier to go with a tour. Although people here are generally friendly and kind, in addition to the language gap, there is enough of a sense of difference that unwell tourists will prefer to be taken to more familiar surroundings.

Morelia maintains a dignity that extends even to life on the street, which is safe, even at night, and happily short on pickpockets. While the large downtown area is suitable for walking, distances can be very daunting during the midday heat, and visitors should wear comfortable footwear, take precautions against the sun, carry a small bottle of water, and remember to take rests in the shade.

The scenic volcanic and lacustrine landscape around Morelia make for some picturesque, winding roads. Visitors are generally advised not to take the libre (that is, non-toll) roads, which lack police security, decent lighting and good highway conditions, when avoidable. If driving, make sure your vehicle is in good condition and know enough rudimentary Spanish for directions and repairs.

Further along the line, the highways heading from Morelia south to the coast used to be one of the country’s most renowned zones for bandits and holdups. Until recent years, bus services headed in this direction were joined in a convoy and escorted by police. A new superhighway seems to have eliminated this problem, but drivers should seek advice from their consulates or the tourism office before embarking on this trip, especially if planning to travel at night.